Travel from Saigon, then discover the beauty of Mekong Delta
http://www.murrayguesthouse.com/tours/tours-from-saigon
Sunday, March 12, 2017
Monday, July 28, 2014
Nine Dragons
The nine dragons are alive
In Vietnamese, the Mekong is called "Cửu Long", which is Sino-Vietnamese for Nine Dragons, after the number of its mouths, but as you try and count the branches of the Mekong that actually reach the sea today, nine is one of the few numbers you will not reach. The dragons are moving
With the siltation and erosion from the sea, the rains and its own flow, the Mekong is changing and evolving. Islands propagate, oxbows appear, mouths silt up.
It takes an old map to figure out the origin of the nine dragons, like this one, dated circa 1910, where we see the following mouths: on the Hậu Giang river, alias the Bassac, are the Đình An, Bassac and Trân Bé mouths, or Cửa. The Cửa Đình An is the trading way today, although so much sitled that there is now a project to open a separate canal through Trà Vinh for the larger freighters. The Bassac mouth is now completely silted up and disappeared.
The rivers Cổ Chiên, with Cửa Cung Hậu and Cửa Cổ Chiên, and Hàm Luông with Cửa Hàm Luông, are still there and are similar today to what they were in the early XXth Century. Tremendous change occurred on the Mỹ Tho river, the end of the Tiền Giang: the Cửa Ba Lai, which was the end of its own river, was entirely silted up and the river nearly completely disappeared, into what is now known as Bình Đại district, in Bến Tre. Cửa Đại and Cửa Tiểu, the large and small mouths of the first river, are still here, Cửa Đại being the main commercial route towards Cambodia today.
Historic waterways
With the siltation and erosion from the sea, the rains and its own flow, the Mekong is changing and evolving. Islands propagate, oxbows appear, mouths silt up.
It takes an old map to figure out the origin of the nine dragons, like this one, dated circa 1910, where we see the following mouths: on the Hậu Giang river, alias the Bassac, are the Đình An, Bassac and Trân Bé mouths, or Cửa. The Cửa Đình An is the trading way today, although so much sitled that there is now a project to open a separate canal through Trà Vinh for the larger freighters. The Bassac mouth is now completely silted up and disappeared.
The rivers Cổ Chiên, with Cửa Cung Hậu and Cửa Cổ Chiên, and Hàm Luông with Cửa Hàm Luông, are still there and are similar today to what they were in the early XXth Century. Tremendous change occurred on the Mỹ Tho river, the end of the Tiền Giang: the Cửa Ba Lai, which was the end of its own river, was entirely silted up and the river nearly completely disappeared, into what is now known as Bình Đại district, in Bến Tre. Cửa Đại and Cửa Tiểu, the large and small mouths of the first river, are still here, Cửa Đại being the main commercial route towards Cambodia today.
Historic waterways
Since the French arrived in the then Cochinchina, they were tempted to open routes to upstream the Mekong delta into Cambodia and then Laos, and as early as 1858, at the time they landed in Tourane (Đà Nẵng), they launched a reconnaissance expedition to chart the larger ways of the Mekong delta, much earlier than the famous Doudart de Lagrée exploration in 1866.
If the geography and proportions of the rivers differ a bit from reality, their topology is rather correct, as far as navigators of the main arteries could discover at that time. Cù Lao Giêng, Cù Lao Ông Hổ, Cù Lao Mây, many details of the Mekong topography are present, and we can somewhat rely on the map to appraise the evolution and changes of the river and its trading waterways.
Many of the main canals are not there, especially Kênh Chợ Gạo and Kênh Lấp Vò, between Mỹ Tho on the Mekong and the common trunk of the Vàm Cò rivers (here named Vai Co), but there are some rạch and arroyos that were at that time of commercial use and that have since become quite secondary, as the Kinh Ba Bio, between Saigon and Cái Bè. The river Măng Thít, between Trà Ôn and Cổ Chiên, is not charted, but its mouth at the confluent on Cổ Chiên (then Co Khiên) is present on the map. The Trà Ôn canal, which was to become the Nicolai canal later in the XXth Century, was certainly already there, at least in its original, river form.
More importantly, there seems to be a natural connection from the first river to Cổ Chiên, just upstream of the effluence of Hàm Luông, at about the location of the present day's Chợ Lách canal. The canal runs 6km across the An Bình peninsula, which is nearly 2km across at its thinnest. Could there have been a natural connection? Maps of 1910 show the canal as it is today, Could it have silted up that fast? Maybe it could: a rather complete map dated 1929 does not show it, nor any connection.
A fine mesh of canals
If the geography and proportions of the rivers differ a bit from reality, their topology is rather correct, as far as navigators of the main arteries could discover at that time. Cù Lao Giêng, Cù Lao Ông Hổ, Cù Lao Mây, many details of the Mekong topography are present, and we can somewhat rely on the map to appraise the evolution and changes of the river and its trading waterways.
Many of the main canals are not there, especially Kênh Chợ Gạo and Kênh Lấp Vò, between Mỹ Tho on the Mekong and the common trunk of the Vàm Cò rivers (here named Vai Co), but there are some rạch and arroyos that were at that time of commercial use and that have since become quite secondary, as the Kinh Ba Bio, between Saigon and Cái Bè. The river Măng Thít, between Trà Ôn and Cổ Chiên, is not charted, but its mouth at the confluent on Cổ Chiên (then Co Khiên) is present on the map. The Trà Ôn canal, which was to become the Nicolai canal later in the XXth Century, was certainly already there, at least in its original, river form.
More importantly, there seems to be a natural connection from the first river to Cổ Chiên, just upstream of the effluence of Hàm Luông, at about the location of the present day's Chợ Lách canal. The canal runs 6km across the An Bình peninsula, which is nearly 2km across at its thinnest. Could there have been a natural connection? Maps of 1910 show the canal as it is today, Could it have silted up that fast? Maybe it could: a rather complete map dated 1929 does not show it, nor any connection.
A fine mesh of canals
Many canals were not built as planned
There is a passage at Chợ Lách, between Cái Bè and Cổ Chiên river, and the Kiên Lương canal was already between Châu Đốc and Hà Tiên on the Gulf of Siam. Many waterways that were deemed of general interest are now limited in air draft by low bridges, and only run by smaller freighters, as for instance the straighter way from Bạc Liêu to Mỹ Tho.
In dotted lines on the map are the canals that the colonial administration planned to dig at that time. With the advent of 1925 and the beginning of social unrest, many of these canals were never built. And some as well should not, like a canal from between Long Xuyên and Châu Đốc that would have met the sea halfway from Rạch Gía to Hà Tiên, where there is nothing. The present day Kênh Rạch Sỏi makes much better sense.
A historic capital of the delta?
An extended network of local canals and waterways shows in blue on the map, although mostly in dotted lines, so as projects at that time. It is quite noteworthy that most of the larger existing canals of local interest as drawn on the map lead to the same place: Phụng Hiệp, about 35 km South of Cần Thơ, and which still hosts today one of the largest floating markets of all: Ngã Bảy, which means 7-ways crossroads (see a satellite picture). If the map is complete enough and reliable, it hints that Phụng Hiệp may have been quite an important commercial place at that time.
There is a passage at Chợ Lách, between Cái Bè and Cổ Chiên river, and the Kiên Lương canal was already between Châu Đốc and Hà Tiên on the Gulf of Siam. Many waterways that were deemed of general interest are now limited in air draft by low bridges, and only run by smaller freighters, as for instance the straighter way from Bạc Liêu to Mỹ Tho.
In dotted lines on the map are the canals that the colonial administration planned to dig at that time. With the advent of 1925 and the beginning of social unrest, many of these canals were never built. And some as well should not, like a canal from between Long Xuyên and Châu Đốc that would have met the sea halfway from Rạch Gía to Hà Tiên, where there is nothing. The present day Kênh Rạch Sỏi makes much better sense.
A historic capital of the delta?
An extended network of local canals and waterways shows in blue on the map, although mostly in dotted lines, so as projects at that time. It is quite noteworthy that most of the larger existing canals of local interest as drawn on the map lead to the same place: Phụng Hiệp, about 35 km South of Cần Thơ, and which still hosts today one of the largest floating markets of all: Ngã Bảy, which means 7-ways crossroads (see a satellite picture). If the map is complete enough and reliable, it hints that Phụng Hiệp may have been quite an important commercial place at that time.
Mekong delta
The delta is the southernmost part of Vietnam, South-West from Hồ Chí Minh City, which is on another river basin. The Mekong enters Vietnam as two branches: The First River (Tiền Giang), which takes several names on the way, enters at Vĩnh Xương and flows through Tân Châu, Cao Lãnh, Sa Đéc, near Cái Bè and Mỹ Tho before exiting out at sea, and the Bassac river, entering from Cambodia just North of Châu Đốc, and flowing through Long Xuyên, Cần Thơ and near Sóc Trang before exiting out at sea at Cửa Đình An.
Threats from the sea
Roughly one half of the delta, North of Cần Thơ, is often flooded about the fall equinox as fresh water cannot freely flow out at sea, and the other half is less flooded, but more and more subject to the effects of saltwater from the sea. The landscapes are thus very varied, from wide open ridgefields to mangrove through coconut groves. The mean altitude of the delta is so low that the sea tides are not only felt but the current actually inverts as far North as Châu Đốc.
The delta produces more than half the total agricultural produce of Vietnam, and is dubbed the "Rice basket of Vietnam". It is a very pleasant area to live, with a bountiful nature and charming people. Its being threatened by an increase in the water levels linked to global climate change makes the delta all the more precious today.
Life on the Mekong delta
Life in the countryside is very much revolving around the river and its innumerable canals and tributaries. Not only is fishing a major occupation in the region, it is essentially done by casting nets and mostly at the scale of a whole village, but for a few decades now, the inhabitants of the delta have set out to grow fish in floating fish farms, at first in the province of An Giang, North of the Bassac river, and now farther and farther downstream. The most recent evolution is fish farming in ponds, be it shrimps, tôm càng or tôm sú, or crabs, and now several sorts of fish. The landscape begins to change deeply in the vicinity of these farms.
The river and its tributaries form a dense net of waterways, of which near 15,000 miles can be navigated by boats of over 100 tons in the delta alone, that is more than ten times the length of compacted road. So all the markets are near the river, and West of the Bassac, they are often afloat on the river itself, be it wholesale markets like that of Cái Răng, near Cần Tho, or retail markets or even village markets like at Trà Ôn.
All the trades pertaining to the river are represented along the banks, where you find not only agriculture producers, fruit drying facilities and small-scale cane sugar refineries, but also mechanics, wooden ship building yards and dry docks.
Wildlife of the Mekong delta
There are mosquitoes in the delta, but they are not very numerous are the water is typically not stagnant, and less so on board, as we are away from the banks. We still advise the passengers to use mosquito repellent, and when on board, simply to close the windows and doors at night in the rainy season.
The spiders and arachnids in the delta are common. They may be large, but they are typically harmless, the larger species to be commonly found are insect traps that can be seen in their webs between bamboos, branches or electric wires.
There may sometimes be small leeches in the rice fields, that may attach to one's skin. Although this is rare and we do not typically enter any rice fields and stay on firm ground, the passengers should simply take their shoes off upon boarding back and check for leeches. Should there be one, do not pull it off, but advise a member of the crew who will take care of you. Properly taken care of, they are mostly harmless.
Another potential although infrequent risk is the rove beetle, or paederus, similar to the Nairobi fly, that may come out with the rain. Although it does not bite or sting, it can cause serious local blisters on the skin if it is crushed or threatened, so you should just blow it off. The rove beetles may be one or two centimeters long; to some people they look like ants although they are more fluid, and they are attracted to light.
Domestic animals
Poultry is farmed extensively in the delta, which was a vector of spreading the avian flu, and although this illness has to this date failed to degenerate into a human pandemic, it is still present in the delta. We advise our passengers to simply avoid contact with the poultry and their direct living area when they come across such farming.
Domestic dogs sometimes may defend their territory or that of their masters and a dog bite could happen. As there is a low but real risk of rabies, in case of a dog bite, we would then take the passengers to a hospital upon arrival to take anti-rabies shots within 24 hours.
Threats from the sea
Roughly one half of the delta, North of Cần Thơ, is often flooded about the fall equinox as fresh water cannot freely flow out at sea, and the other half is less flooded, but more and more subject to the effects of saltwater from the sea. The landscapes are thus very varied, from wide open ridgefields to mangrove through coconut groves. The mean altitude of the delta is so low that the sea tides are not only felt but the current actually inverts as far North as Châu Đốc.
The delta produces more than half the total agricultural produce of Vietnam, and is dubbed the "Rice basket of Vietnam". It is a very pleasant area to live, with a bountiful nature and charming people. Its being threatened by an increase in the water levels linked to global climate change makes the delta all the more precious today.
Life on the Mekong delta
Life in the countryside is very much revolving around the river and its innumerable canals and tributaries. Not only is fishing a major occupation in the region, it is essentially done by casting nets and mostly at the scale of a whole village, but for a few decades now, the inhabitants of the delta have set out to grow fish in floating fish farms, at first in the province of An Giang, North of the Bassac river, and now farther and farther downstream. The most recent evolution is fish farming in ponds, be it shrimps, tôm càng or tôm sú, or crabs, and now several sorts of fish. The landscape begins to change deeply in the vicinity of these farms.
The river and its tributaries form a dense net of waterways, of which near 15,000 miles can be navigated by boats of over 100 tons in the delta alone, that is more than ten times the length of compacted road. So all the markets are near the river, and West of the Bassac, they are often afloat on the river itself, be it wholesale markets like that of Cái Răng, near Cần Tho, or retail markets or even village markets like at Trà Ôn.
All the trades pertaining to the river are represented along the banks, where you find not only agriculture producers, fruit drying facilities and small-scale cane sugar refineries, but also mechanics, wooden ship building yards and dry docks.
Wildlife of the Mekong delta
There are mosquitoes in the delta, but they are not very numerous are the water is typically not stagnant, and less so on board, as we are away from the banks. We still advise the passengers to use mosquito repellent, and when on board, simply to close the windows and doors at night in the rainy season.
The spiders and arachnids in the delta are common. They may be large, but they are typically harmless, the larger species to be commonly found are insect traps that can be seen in their webs between bamboos, branches or electric wires.
There may sometimes be small leeches in the rice fields, that may attach to one's skin. Although this is rare and we do not typically enter any rice fields and stay on firm ground, the passengers should simply take their shoes off upon boarding back and check for leeches. Should there be one, do not pull it off, but advise a member of the crew who will take care of you. Properly taken care of, they are mostly harmless.
Another potential although infrequent risk is the rove beetle, or paederus, similar to the Nairobi fly, that may come out with the rain. Although it does not bite or sting, it can cause serious local blisters on the skin if it is crushed or threatened, so you should just blow it off. The rove beetles may be one or two centimeters long; to some people they look like ants although they are more fluid, and they are attracted to light.
Domestic animals
Poultry is farmed extensively in the delta, which was a vector of spreading the avian flu, and although this illness has to this date failed to degenerate into a human pandemic, it is still present in the delta. We advise our passengers to simply avoid contact with the poultry and their direct living area when they come across such farming.
Domestic dogs sometimes may defend their territory or that of their masters and a dog bite could happen. As there is a low but real risk of rabies, in case of a dog bite, we would then take the passengers to a hospital upon arrival to take anti-rabies shots within 24 hours.
Cai Be
One
of the many well known floating markets in the western region of
southern Vietnam was formed in the Nguyen Dynasty in the 19th century.
The Cai Be Floating Market is always busy, bearing all the characteristics of the locals’ life in the western region.
All
the goods are transported to the market by rafts and boats. The market
is divided into two parts: buying and selling places. Rafts and boats
are anchored along the two sides of the river for kilometers. On each
boat, goods are hung on poles that are called dialectically
Hundreds of such poles point towards the sky. Boats also operate like “taxi” very convenient for tourists around the region. River cruising through the Mekong Delta on AmaLotus and RV La Marguerite is a sophisticated and intimate journey filled with sightseeing, excursions and learnings along the inland water
One of the most exciting ports that AmaWaterways, The AmaLotus tours is Cai Be and the Cai Be Floating Market. It is a huge draw for locals and tourists alike. Although the wares on sale are not that unusual – delicious local vegetables and fruits such as melon, durian and banana – it’s the manner of shopping that’s so novel, as every part of the transaction is conducted on the water; stallholders sell from larger boats, hanging out samples from poles, while shoppers mill about on smaller craft. All the goods are transported to the market by rafts and boats.
The market is divided into two parts: buying and selling places. Rafts ad boats are anchored along the two sides of the river for kilometers. On each boat, goods are hung on poles that are called phonetically “cay beo”. Hundreds of such poles point toward the sky. The whole scene takes place against the photogenic backdrop of Cai Be’s 19th century French Gothic Cathedral, whose elegant spire dominates the river.
The nature is fertile and harmonious; people are open hearted and hospitable; a distinctive ecological system and the river network of South Vietnam work together to form the floating market; the cultural features are very distinctive and special making Cai Be a “Mekong Delta in miniature, a safe and attractive destination” for travelers from all over the world
Hundreds of such poles point towards the sky. Boats also operate like “taxi” very convenient for tourists around the region. River cruising through the Mekong Delta on AmaLotus and RV La Marguerite is a sophisticated and intimate journey filled with sightseeing, excursions and learnings along the inland water
One of the most exciting ports that AmaWaterways, The AmaLotus tours is Cai Be and the Cai Be Floating Market. It is a huge draw for locals and tourists alike. Although the wares on sale are not that unusual – delicious local vegetables and fruits such as melon, durian and banana – it’s the manner of shopping that’s so novel, as every part of the transaction is conducted on the water; stallholders sell from larger boats, hanging out samples from poles, while shoppers mill about on smaller craft. All the goods are transported to the market by rafts and boats.
The market is divided into two parts: buying and selling places. Rafts ad boats are anchored along the two sides of the river for kilometers. On each boat, goods are hung on poles that are called phonetically “cay beo”. Hundreds of such poles point toward the sky. The whole scene takes place against the photogenic backdrop of Cai Be’s 19th century French Gothic Cathedral, whose elegant spire dominates the river.
The nature is fertile and harmonious; people are open hearted and hospitable; a distinctive ecological system and the river network of South Vietnam work together to form the floating market; the cultural features are very distinctive and special making Cai Be a “Mekong Delta in miniature, a safe and attractive destination” for travelers from all over the world
Can Tho
Cần Thơ (Khmer: ព្រែកឬស្សី; Prek Russey) is the fourth largest city in Vietnam, and the largest city in the Mekong Delta. It is noted for its floating market, rice paper-making village, and picturesque rural canals.
It had a population of 1.2 million as of 2011, and is located on the south bank of the Hau River, a branch of the Mekong. In 2007, about 50 people died when Cần Thơ Bridge collapsed, causing Vietnam's worst engineering disaster. In 2011, Can Tho International Airport opened. The city is nicknamed the "western capital" (Tây Đô), and is located 169 kilometres (105 miles) from Ho Chi Minh City. Cần Thơ's climate is tropical and monsoonal with two seasons: rainy, from May to November; and dry, from December to April. Average annual humidity is 83%, rainfall 1,635 mm (64 in) and temperature 27 °C (81 °F).
Transportation
Cần Thơ is connected to the rest of the country by National Route 1A and Can Tho International Airport. The city's bridge which is now completed, is the longest cable-stayed bridge in Southeast Asia. The 6-lane Saigon–Cần Thơ Expressway is being built in parts[clarification needed] from Hồ Chí Minh City to Mỹ Tho. The hydrofoil express boat links this city with Ho Chi Minh City
As a regional hub, it is easy to get to Can Tho from cities in the Mekong Delta. There are bus operators from all big cities and minibuses from smaller ones. If you arrive from Cambodia, you will probably stop in Chau Duc and catch a bus to Can Tho here. There is also one bus line directly from Phnom Penh once a day. It is difficult, not to say impossible, to get in by car from Cambodia as a tourist. You should also check, if you want to enter Vietnam by bicycle or motorbike. A new airport services Can Tho. Currently flight destinations are limited, but as the city grows more destinations are planned
By Express Bus
It had a population of 1.2 million as of 2011, and is located on the south bank of the Hau River, a branch of the Mekong. In 2007, about 50 people died when Cần Thơ Bridge collapsed, causing Vietnam's worst engineering disaster. In 2011, Can Tho International Airport opened. The city is nicknamed the "western capital" (Tây Đô), and is located 169 kilometres (105 miles) from Ho Chi Minh City. Cần Thơ's climate is tropical and monsoonal with two seasons: rainy, from May to November; and dry, from December to April. Average annual humidity is 83%, rainfall 1,635 mm (64 in) and temperature 27 °C (81 °F).
Transportation
Cần Thơ is connected to the rest of the country by National Route 1A and Can Tho International Airport. The city's bridge which is now completed, is the longest cable-stayed bridge in Southeast Asia. The 6-lane Saigon–Cần Thơ Expressway is being built in parts[clarification needed] from Hồ Chí Minh City to Mỹ Tho. The hydrofoil express boat links this city with Ho Chi Minh City
As a regional hub, it is easy to get to Can Tho from cities in the Mekong Delta. There are bus operators from all big cities and minibuses from smaller ones. If you arrive from Cambodia, you will probably stop in Chau Duc and catch a bus to Can Tho here. There is also one bus line directly from Phnom Penh once a day. It is difficult, not to say impossible, to get in by car from Cambodia as a tourist. You should also check, if you want to enter Vietnam by bicycle or motorbike. A new airport services Can Tho. Currently flight destinations are limited, but as the city grows more destinations are planned
By Express Bus
Many operators serve Can Tho from cities in the Mekong Delta up to the center and north of Vietnam. You may have a short stop in Ho Chi Minh City. Most travelers arrive in Can Tho from Ho Chi Minh City.
From Ho Chi Minh City bus operators servicing Can Tho are leaving every one to two hours around the clock from the Western Bus Station (Bến Xe Miền Tây). Prices are US$4-7. Smaller more local buses from Saigon to Can Tho leave in the morning. There are three main operators servicing routes from Ho Chi Minh City as well as other destinations - "Thanh Buoi", "Phuong Trang" and "Mailinh". The big operators also have a departure point in the center of the city at Le Hong Phong street, from where shuttle buses will bring you to Bến Xe Miền Tây. You can take a taxi to Le Hong Phong street in district 10. Look out for the office of "Thanh Buoi" (white background logo with a flower), "Phuong Trang" (red signs) or "Mailinh" (all green) or go straight to Mien Tay bus station in district 6. The taxi from district 1 costs around US$15 in August 2013. With most operators you will get a small bottle of water included in your ticket price. Bigger buses offer AC, but also entertainment program of Vietnamese films and music shows, which are usually perceived as too loud for "Western ears".
Major Bus Operators
Thanh Buoi is providing the fastest service to Can Tho as the bus only stops for a 10 minutes on the way from Ho Chi Minh city. The ride takes about 3 hours. The company provides a small bun as a free snack and free water for customers. At the arrival in Can Tho shuttle buses bring you to your final destination inside the city. Have the address of your hotel ready. The shuttle buses are paid for as part of your ticket. Cost from HCMC (Mar. 2014): 125,000VND
Phuong Trang has the largest number of services to Can Tho daily. There is a stop for 30 minutes in the large Phuong Trang highway service and restaurant point. The ride takes 4 hours. The operator provides free water in the bus. In Can Tho a shuttle bus will bring you to your final destination, if you have the address of your hotel ready. This is included in the price of your ticket. Cost from HCMC (Apr. 2014): 125,000VND
By motorbike, car and taxi
By car, allow about 1.5 hours from Sóc Trăng, about 3 hours from Châu Đốc, about 3.5 hours from Rạch Giá, less than 4 hours from Ho Chi Minh City (169 km), about 6 hours from Cà Mau and about 1.5 hours from Long Xuyen. It is possible to rent a car for US$140-180 for a one-way trip (or return trip in the same day) for 2-3 passengers from Ho Chi Minh City to Can Tho. A driver is included in the price. In case you want to drive yourself, you should check well in advance about the conditions.
You might be slightly faster by motorbike than by car depending on your way of driving. It is quite easy to rent a motorbike in the tourist area in Ho Chi Minh City district 1. Most rental stores will rent a motorbike to you, if you can show a driving license of any country or will even not ask for a license at all. Beware that you are only covered by your insurance in case of an accident, if your driving license is valid in Vietnam. Most European licenses are not automatically accepted. You might need to take an additional test with Vietnamese authorities in order to comply with the local rules.
It is also possible to rent a taxi for about almost the same price as a car for 1 way from Ho Chi Minh City to Can Tho. Try hiring a Vinasun Taxi or Mailinh taxi.
By boat
Apart from overnight boat cruises for tourists, there are not anymore regular boat transportation services to Can Tho. This is due to the fact that the time for driving to Can Tho has been reduced to less than 4 hours with the opening of the Can Tho bridge in 2011 and the finalization of the motorway around HCMC.
By air
Trà Nóc Airport now has a vast international terminal with convenient facilities. As of 2011, the airport is connected to Hanoi, Phu Quoc with flights on Vietnam Airlines and Con Dao with flights on Mekong Air.
Get around
Can Tho is a big city, but the center between the university and the quay can be easily explored on foot (đi bộ). Good hotels will offer you a map.
By bicycle and motorbike
It is easy to get around in Can Tho by motorbike or bicycle. Rental rates might be higher than in Saigon or some of the tourist hotspots in central Vietnam. This is probably due to the fact, that the number of international customers is much lower and the cost is higher. A 24 hour rental of an automatic motorbike will cost around 220.000 VND, older manual motorbikes might be substantially cheaper. Locals will usually not rent motorbikes or bicycles and it even is not so easy to find a rental shop where people speak English.
The bicycles available in Cantho are useful to get around, but beware that those bicycles are produced for the local population, who are on average smaller and lighter than Western tourists. These bicycles can break quickly and some local shops may be even hesitant to rent it out to you, because of constant repairs that are required. With the quality standard in mind, when you rent a bicycle, check that the brakes work for you!
By taxi
Mailinh and Happy Taxi are the two main taxi operators of the city. The frequency of taxi cars is much lower than in Saigon as there are less big companies using the taxi fleet in Can Tho. Only a few drivers speak English. Best is to ask your hotel to call a taxi for you and ask them to tell the destination to the driver.
On the river
There are ferries to surrounding areas available from two stations at Ninh Kieu quay. If you want to travel on the river, you can rent a private boat at Ninh Kieu pier. Rates vary and depend on your negotiation skills. Refer to the paragraph about floating markets for more details.
See
Pagodas and Temples
Phuong Trang has the largest number of services to Can Tho daily. There is a stop for 30 minutes in the large Phuong Trang highway service and restaurant point. The ride takes 4 hours. The operator provides free water in the bus. In Can Tho a shuttle bus will bring you to your final destination, if you have the address of your hotel ready. This is included in the price of your ticket. Cost from HCMC (Apr. 2014): 125,000VND
By motorbike, car and taxi
By car, allow about 1.5 hours from Sóc Trăng, about 3 hours from Châu Đốc, about 3.5 hours from Rạch Giá, less than 4 hours from Ho Chi Minh City (169 km), about 6 hours from Cà Mau and about 1.5 hours from Long Xuyen. It is possible to rent a car for US$140-180 for a one-way trip (or return trip in the same day) for 2-3 passengers from Ho Chi Minh City to Can Tho. A driver is included in the price. In case you want to drive yourself, you should check well in advance about the conditions.
You might be slightly faster by motorbike than by car depending on your way of driving. It is quite easy to rent a motorbike in the tourist area in Ho Chi Minh City district 1. Most rental stores will rent a motorbike to you, if you can show a driving license of any country or will even not ask for a license at all. Beware that you are only covered by your insurance in case of an accident, if your driving license is valid in Vietnam. Most European licenses are not automatically accepted. You might need to take an additional test with Vietnamese authorities in order to comply with the local rules.
It is also possible to rent a taxi for about almost the same price as a car for 1 way from Ho Chi Minh City to Can Tho. Try hiring a Vinasun Taxi or Mailinh taxi.
By boat
Apart from overnight boat cruises for tourists, there are not anymore regular boat transportation services to Can Tho. This is due to the fact that the time for driving to Can Tho has been reduced to less than 4 hours with the opening of the Can Tho bridge in 2011 and the finalization of the motorway around HCMC.
By air
Trà Nóc Airport now has a vast international terminal with convenient facilities. As of 2011, the airport is connected to Hanoi, Phu Quoc with flights on Vietnam Airlines and Con Dao with flights on Mekong Air.
Get around
Can Tho is a big city, but the center between the university and the quay can be easily explored on foot (đi bộ). Good hotels will offer you a map.
By bicycle and motorbike
It is easy to get around in Can Tho by motorbike or bicycle. Rental rates might be higher than in Saigon or some of the tourist hotspots in central Vietnam. This is probably due to the fact, that the number of international customers is much lower and the cost is higher. A 24 hour rental of an automatic motorbike will cost around 220.000 VND, older manual motorbikes might be substantially cheaper. Locals will usually not rent motorbikes or bicycles and it even is not so easy to find a rental shop where people speak English.
The bicycles available in Cantho are useful to get around, but beware that those bicycles are produced for the local population, who are on average smaller and lighter than Western tourists. These bicycles can break quickly and some local shops may be even hesitant to rent it out to you, because of constant repairs that are required. With the quality standard in mind, when you rent a bicycle, check that the brakes work for you!
By taxi
Mailinh and Happy Taxi are the two main taxi operators of the city. The frequency of taxi cars is much lower than in Saigon as there are less big companies using the taxi fleet in Can Tho. Only a few drivers speak English. Best is to ask your hotel to call a taxi for you and ask them to tell the destination to the driver.
On the river
There are ferries to surrounding areas available from two stations at Ninh Kieu quay. If you want to travel on the river, you can rent a private boat at Ninh Kieu pier. Rates vary and depend on your negotiation skills. Refer to the paragraph about floating markets for more details.
See
Pagodas and Temples
Quang Duc Pagoda, Mau Than Street, one of the biggest and most active Buddhist Temples with monks living in the premises. Visitors are welcome at any time of the day. There are fewer people during the afternoon, when it is rather hot, but it gets very lively often in the evenings.
Buu Tri Pagoda, Mau Than Street, a newer temple in the city
The Khmer Pagoda of Munirangsyaram, Hoà Bình street
Churches
Tham Tướng Church on Mau Than Street, nice little church build by the French
Tin Lanh Baptist Church close to Can Tho University in Mau Than
Xuan Khanh Quarter
Tham Tướng Church
The Xuan Khanh quarter is the geological center of the city and part of the Ninh Kieu district. In the 18th century the quarter was originally named Tham Tướng after the general Tham Tướng who fought the Siamese troops in 1772 that were advancing from Ha Tien. As with so many places the name of the area was changed after the Vietnamese war to reflect the ideology of the new regime in power.
Mau Than Street is the central street of Xuan Khan and famous as the longest street in the Mekong Delta stretching over 30 kilometres. The street is named after the Tet Offensive during the Vietnam War, that was launched on the Vietnamese New Year on January 30, 1968 by forces of the People's Army of Vietnam against South Vietnam. In Vietnamese, the offensive is called Tết Mậu Thân (Tet, year of the monkey). So in fact "Mau Than" actually means "year of the monkey" [2]. Xuan Khanh Market at the beginning of the street is a daily stop for many citizens who get their food and other supplies here. Mau Than is also center for the local community as there are two churches and the Quang Duc Pagoda in just a few hundred metres distance. Depending on the day of your visit you may see many traditionally dressed monks and Buddhist citizens or a celebration service of one of the churches that often reach into the street in the evening (usually between 6pm and 8.30pm).
Xuan Khanh Student Quarter: Many students from the nearby Can Tho University live in Xuan Khanh or do their daily shopping in one of the local shops. There are small eateries in the street and alleys as well as cafe's catering for the growing student population. As this quarter is less frequented by tourists, visiting Xuan Khanh you will find more local experience than in the upmarket Ninh Kieu pier. The best time to visit is in the afternoon and early evening. After visiting one of the churches or a temple, you could eat out in one of the street restaurants if you are up for an experience like a local student. There is also a famous alley with a dozen of hot pot restaurants here dubbed by locals Hot Pot Alley or in Vietnamese Hẻm Vit Nau Chao (refer to food section for more info). In the small streets and alleys coming from Mau Than you often find low budget snack bars or restaurants. In Nguyen Cu Trinh Street (side street of Mau Than) for example you can eat fresh mussels and sit on those plastic chairs they set up quickly and serve customers in the evening. If you dare also try one of the local sweets in the small corner alley at Hem 95 (Alley 95). After that you can visit one of the bars or cafes in Mau Than or relax on the roof top bar of the yellow mango colored Hotel Xoai, which means "Hotel Mango" as there used to be a mango orchard at this place.
Hai Bà Trưng area
Hai Bà Trưng street: This area is one of the main areas and attractions of Can Tho. Located directly at the Mekong river. It offers a park at the riverside with the Ho Chi Minh statue. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants around here and from here you can book boat trips, for example to the floating markets. Just look for some friendly tour guides, who speak english pretty well. They'll also help you make the tour of your choice which offers a greater experience than the standard tours offered by the tourist office. (also without paying commission).
Market at Cái Khế : there is a local daily market at Trần Văn Khéo street. Also you'll find the Can Tho water park here.
Local markets
Buu Tri Pagoda, Mau Than Street, a newer temple in the city
The Khmer Pagoda of Munirangsyaram, Hoà Bình street
Churches
Tham Tướng Church on Mau Than Street, nice little church build by the French
Tin Lanh Baptist Church close to Can Tho University in Mau Than
Xuan Khanh Quarter
Tham Tướng Church
The Xuan Khanh quarter is the geological center of the city and part of the Ninh Kieu district. In the 18th century the quarter was originally named Tham Tướng after the general Tham Tướng who fought the Siamese troops in 1772 that were advancing from Ha Tien. As with so many places the name of the area was changed after the Vietnamese war to reflect the ideology of the new regime in power.
Mau Than Street is the central street of Xuan Khan and famous as the longest street in the Mekong Delta stretching over 30 kilometres. The street is named after the Tet Offensive during the Vietnam War, that was launched on the Vietnamese New Year on January 30, 1968 by forces of the People's Army of Vietnam against South Vietnam. In Vietnamese, the offensive is called Tết Mậu Thân (Tet, year of the monkey). So in fact "Mau Than" actually means "year of the monkey" [2]. Xuan Khanh Market at the beginning of the street is a daily stop for many citizens who get their food and other supplies here. Mau Than is also center for the local community as there are two churches and the Quang Duc Pagoda in just a few hundred metres distance. Depending on the day of your visit you may see many traditionally dressed monks and Buddhist citizens or a celebration service of one of the churches that often reach into the street in the evening (usually between 6pm and 8.30pm).
Xuan Khanh Student Quarter: Many students from the nearby Can Tho University live in Xuan Khanh or do their daily shopping in one of the local shops. There are small eateries in the street and alleys as well as cafe's catering for the growing student population. As this quarter is less frequented by tourists, visiting Xuan Khanh you will find more local experience than in the upmarket Ninh Kieu pier. The best time to visit is in the afternoon and early evening. After visiting one of the churches or a temple, you could eat out in one of the street restaurants if you are up for an experience like a local student. There is also a famous alley with a dozen of hot pot restaurants here dubbed by locals Hot Pot Alley or in Vietnamese Hẻm Vit Nau Chao (refer to food section for more info). In the small streets and alleys coming from Mau Than you often find low budget snack bars or restaurants. In Nguyen Cu Trinh Street (side street of Mau Than) for example you can eat fresh mussels and sit on those plastic chairs they set up quickly and serve customers in the evening. If you dare also try one of the local sweets in the small corner alley at Hem 95 (Alley 95). After that you can visit one of the bars or cafes in Mau Than or relax on the roof top bar of the yellow mango colored Hotel Xoai, which means "Hotel Mango" as there used to be a mango orchard at this place.
Hai Bà Trưng area
Hai Bà Trưng street: This area is one of the main areas and attractions of Can Tho. Located directly at the Mekong river. It offers a park at the riverside with the Ho Chi Minh statue. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants around here and from here you can book boat trips, for example to the floating markets. Just look for some friendly tour guides, who speak english pretty well. They'll also help you make the tour of your choice which offers a greater experience than the standard tours offered by the tourist office. (also without paying commission).
Market at Cái Khế : there is a local daily market at Trần Văn Khéo street. Also you'll find the Can Tho water park here.
Local markets
Ninh Kieu Tourist Market
Cái Khế Market or the longer form Trung Tâm Thương Mại Cái Khế (Cái Khế Commercial Center) is a big market on Trần Văn Khéo street catering for businesses including restaurants and hotels as well as end consumers. The market stretches over two sides of the street, with the area facing the river offering products for daily use, fish and other fresh food products that arrive on the river. On the other side of the market, you will find many wholesalers for textiles and home products.
Xuan Khanh Market, is a market predominantly for fresh food, fish, vegetables and fruits. Other products for all daily needs are also available. It is located at the beginning of Mau Than Street. Many locals still use the name Tham Tuong Market, according to the old name of the area, but it is officially called Xuan Khanh Market now.
Ninh Kieu Pier Tourist Market, The main market of Can Tho used to be an open market located on Ninh Kiều pier. Today, the only original building left is the beautiful old market hall, now surrounded with a garden along the river. Now Cái Khế markets further upstream the Can Tho river and Xuan Khanh Market host the increasing activity.
Cái Khế Market or the longer form Trung Tâm Thương Mại Cái Khế (Cái Khế Commercial Center) is a big market on Trần Văn Khéo street catering for businesses including restaurants and hotels as well as end consumers. The market stretches over two sides of the street, with the area facing the river offering products for daily use, fish and other fresh food products that arrive on the river. On the other side of the market, you will find many wholesalers for textiles and home products.
Xuan Khanh Market, is a market predominantly for fresh food, fish, vegetables and fruits. Other products for all daily needs are also available. It is located at the beginning of Mau Than Street. Many locals still use the name Tham Tuong Market, according to the old name of the area, but it is officially called Xuan Khanh Market now.
Ninh Kieu Pier Tourist Market, The main market of Can Tho used to be an open market located on Ninh Kiều pier. Today, the only original building left is the beautiful old market hall, now surrounded with a garden along the river. Now Cái Khế markets further upstream the Can Tho river and Xuan Khanh Market host the increasing activity.
Beautiful Views
There are many bridges with beautiful views.
Locals like to spend the evening at Nguyen Trai bridge, where a cool air is breezing from the river.
A nice spot with a picturesque view is Ho Xang Thoi, a small man-made pond surrounded by the typical "skinny" apartments that you see in Vietnam. Makes for a very nice photo during sunset.
Do
Can Tho is a place to experience the local life in a relaxed way. It is like a real life cultural experience and there are many things to do. While there are a couple of museums, they only open on special days and even expats living in the city may have never visited them or even heard of them. Traveling in the Mekong Delta is about experiencing the here and now and feeling the fast pacing change that is going on in Asia, where "the old" is constantly merging with "the new". The most famous activity in Can Tho in the morning is certainly the visit of the floating market, but there is much more to the city.
Floating Markets
There are many bridges with beautiful views.
Locals like to spend the evening at Nguyen Trai bridge, where a cool air is breezing from the river.
A nice spot with a picturesque view is Ho Xang Thoi, a small man-made pond surrounded by the typical "skinny" apartments that you see in Vietnam. Makes for a very nice photo during sunset.
Do
Can Tho is a place to experience the local life in a relaxed way. It is like a real life cultural experience and there are many things to do. While there are a couple of museums, they only open on special days and even expats living in the city may have never visited them or even heard of them. Traveling in the Mekong Delta is about experiencing the here and now and feeling the fast pacing change that is going on in Asia, where "the old" is constantly merging with "the new". The most famous activity in Can Tho in the morning is certainly the visit of the floating market, but there is much more to the city.
Floating Markets
Cai Rang floating market
The floating markets are a very lively scene, accommodating much of the goods exchange throughout the area. And, the canal system around Can Tho is a fascinating travel network, much more relaxing than the bustling roads. Longer tours on a private boat to the floating markets usually include traveling through the canals as well. Make sure the boat you book is a small boat that can take you through the small canals that the larger tour boats cannot navigate. You can rent a boat from the "boat ladies" at the Ninh Kiều pier or from local tour agents. Often they can pick you up at your hotel and the tour included some snacks. Prices depend on your negotiation skills and the longer the tour, the cheaper. On August 2013, starting prices of private boats to the floating markets are about 19$ for a 3 hour tour to Cai Rang floating market and about 39$ for a 7 hour tour to both markets - Cai Rang and Phong Dien - and canals. It could be bargained down and the price also depends on the quality and state of the boat. Make sure that the boat has a shade, so you do not sit in the sun for too long.
Cai Rang (Cái Răng) floating market is the main wholesale floating market near Can Tho. Go there early in the morning (as early as 5:30am), and come back through the small tributaries to Can Tho river; about 3-4 hours.
Phong Dien (Phong Điền) is further upstream the Can Tho river, and worth seeing as it is a retail market. It is very active at dawn, but slows down early too, so you may want to go there by land. The arroyos back to Can Tho are also very much worth a ride on a small boat.
Phung Hiep (Phụng Hiệp) is much farther away, in the neighboring Hậu Giang province, but deserves a trip if you are going to stay more than a few days, as it is always bustling with activity. There are cruises offered to this destination.
Tra On (Trà Ôn), in Vinh Long province, is just over an hour downstream the Bassac (the lower Mekong branch, also called Hậu Giang or Sông Hậu). It is a small floating village's market anchored near the clouds' island (Cù Lao Mây).
Floating Market Tours (moderate prices, friendly guides and reliable private boats operated by Mekong Official Tourism Information Bureau), Hai Bà Trưng, Ninh Kieu, Opposite Ho Chi Minh Statue
The floating markets are a very lively scene, accommodating much of the goods exchange throughout the area. And, the canal system around Can Tho is a fascinating travel network, much more relaxing than the bustling roads. Longer tours on a private boat to the floating markets usually include traveling through the canals as well. Make sure the boat you book is a small boat that can take you through the small canals that the larger tour boats cannot navigate. You can rent a boat from the "boat ladies" at the Ninh Kiều pier or from local tour agents. Often they can pick you up at your hotel and the tour included some snacks. Prices depend on your negotiation skills and the longer the tour, the cheaper. On August 2013, starting prices of private boats to the floating markets are about 19$ for a 3 hour tour to Cai Rang floating market and about 39$ for a 7 hour tour to both markets - Cai Rang and Phong Dien - and canals. It could be bargained down and the price also depends on the quality and state of the boat. Make sure that the boat has a shade, so you do not sit in the sun for too long.
Cai Rang (Cái Răng) floating market is the main wholesale floating market near Can Tho. Go there early in the morning (as early as 5:30am), and come back through the small tributaries to Can Tho river; about 3-4 hours.
Phong Dien (Phong Điền) is further upstream the Can Tho river, and worth seeing as it is a retail market. It is very active at dawn, but slows down early too, so you may want to go there by land. The arroyos back to Can Tho are also very much worth a ride on a small boat.
Phung Hiep (Phụng Hiệp) is much farther away, in the neighboring Hậu Giang province, but deserves a trip if you are going to stay more than a few days, as it is always bustling with activity. There are cruises offered to this destination.
Tra On (Trà Ôn), in Vinh Long province, is just over an hour downstream the Bassac (the lower Mekong branch, also called Hậu Giang or Sông Hậu). It is a small floating village's market anchored near the clouds' island (Cù Lao Mây).
Floating Market Tours (moderate prices, friendly guides and reliable private boats operated by Mekong Official Tourism Information Bureau), Hai Bà Trưng, Ninh Kieu, Opposite Ho Chi Minh Statue
Cao Lanh
Cao Lãnh (Vietnamese) or Cao Lanh is the capital city of Đồng Tháp Province, Vietnam.
During
the French colonial period Cao Lãnh found some supporters for the
nationalist appeal of Trần Huy Liệu's Đông Pháp Thời Báo (Indochina
Times) founded in May 1923. Later, in initial resistance to the French
in 1945, the Việt Nam Quốc Dân Đảng and others in the South formed into
the Third Division of the popular army. Cao Lãnh was where the troops
were reorganized into 23 units each of 500-600 men.
Prior to 1975, Cao Lãnh was the capital of the Kiến Phong province, in the Mekong Delta region
of South Vietnam. In February 1976, Kien Phong was merged with Sa Đéc
Province to become Đồng Tháp Province. Sa Đéc became the capital city of
the new province. Cao Lãnh replaced Sa Đéc as the capital since April
24, 1994, and became a city since October 2007.
Long Xuyen
Long Xuyên is the capital city of An Giang Province, in the Mekong Delta region
of southwestern Vietnam. It is located at approximately 1,950 km south
of Hanoi, 189 km from Ho Chi Minh City, and 45 km from the boundary with
Cambodia. The population of Long Xuyên city is over 368,376 (2013),
with an area of only 130 km².
Long Xuyên is the second most prosperous city in southwestern Vietnam, just after Cần Thơ city
Economy
Long
Xuyên is a very developed city in merchandising (mainly in rice
trading) and processing fish industry (such as basa fish) with more than
six plants and 10,000 workers.
Education
Long
Xuyên is home to An Giang University and the Long Xuyên Teacher's
Training College. An Giang University is the second largest university
in the Mekong Delta.
An Giang University has more than 8,000 students and began as a
teaching trainer's college. It was recognized with university status in
2000. Currently they have faculties in Education, Agriculture,
Economics, IT, and Marx-Lenin Ideologies
There
are three main high schools in Long Xuyên city. Thoại Ngọc Hầu, Binh
Khanh, and Long Xuyên, respectively. Thoại Ngọc Hầu high school was once
known as Long Xuyên high school, with currently over 2,000 students.
Thoại Ngọc Hầu is a specialized school for majors of English,
Mathematics, Chemistry, Physics, Literature, and Biology.
Culture
Long
Xuyên is the center of the Hòa Hảo religion. There are also many
Catholic churches, as well as some people who follow Buddhism and other
religions.
The local people often go to
supermarkets on Saturday and Sunday. Also, former president Tôn Đức
Thắng's birthday is celebrated in My Hoa Hung (Tiger Island).
Local
dishes include the standard Vietnamese fare as well as some variations
on the area specialties (for example basa fish, mắm thái, and thot not
coconuts).
Each year, many tourists pass
through Long Xuyên, on their way to Châu Đốc, which is a major stop-over
on the way to Cambodia. However, tourists rarely stay in Long Xuyên.
Bà Chúa Xứ Shrine is a sacred place that is visited by many people who pray for financial success. Each March, Châu Đốc celebrates the Bà Chúa Xứ festival, a large religious festival on top of Sam mountain.
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